3 days ago
Run, don't walk, to Japan's Hide-Chan Ramen's KL Lot 10 pop-up for Bib Gourmand-worthy Hakata ‘tonkotsu' ramen
KUALA LUMPUR, Aug 15 — Ramen is perhaps one of the few food trends that came to Malaysia and… never really went away.
The fact that it's still around, having evolved from flash novelty to a staple in the public consciousness and almost taken for granted, is a testament to both the appeal and adaptability of a bowl of noodles that has faced pretty fierce competition recently, particularly from mee tarik.
Today, it is possible to find a wide variety of ramen in the Klang Valley, from Sapporo miso ramen to Tokyo chicken ramen, and even tsukemen.
But the first to capture our hearts and minds, and still the most popular by far, is the salty, creamy and porky tonkotsu.
It is hard to overstate the ubiquity of tonkotsu in ramen restaurants throughout the Klang Valley, and as of last week, a new contender has stepped into the ring.
Hide-Chan Ramen, founded by Hideto Kawahara in 1993 in Kego, Fukuoka, serving Hakata tonkotsu ramen, has arrived as a six-month pop-up on Level 4, J's Gate Dining in Lot 10 from August 8.
The pop-up is located in the lot right next to the escalator from the upper-level car park — Picture by Ethan Lau
At its height, the brand had locations in six different countries.
Hide-Chan was part of the early ramen scene in New York City, and during the height of the city's ramen craze more than 10 years ago, it thrilled critics from The New York Times, such as Betsy Andrews and Pete Wells, and earned a Bib Gourmand in the Michelin Guide for New York City from 2012 to 2021.
Another location in Hong Kong also received Bib Gourmand recognition from 2012 to 2014.
Like Hide-Chan, tonkotsu broth originates from Fukuoka, and though it's now used in a wide variety of preparations, it is traditionally associated with Hakata ramen.
A typical bowl has the aforementioned rich, milky broth, cloudy and emulsified from the long boiling of pork bones, with thin, straight noodles topped simply with chopped spring onions and sesame seeds.
The rich, milky 'tonkotsu' broth here is fatty and salty (as it should be), but also perfectly balanced — Picture by Ethan Lau
Characteristic condiments include pickled ginger and crushed raw garlic, often served on the side. '
All this, and more, is what you will find when you walk into the location, right next to the escalator to the upper-level car park, flanked by Mo-Mo Paradise on the right.
Don't waste precious time and calories on the side dishes.
Both the pan-fried gyoza (RM11) and boiled gyoza (RM12) are decent, but nothing great, and the karaage (RM12) is wholly skippable.
The main reason to be here is the eight types of ramen on the menu, but the best of the bunch by far is the aburitate toroniku cha-shu men (RM36 + RM3 for nitamago, a flavoured hard-boiled egg).
Instead of regular 'chashu', this dish comes with slivers of grilled pork jowl, dripping in its own smoky fat with a texture beyond tender — Picture by Ethan Lau
Considered Hide-Chan's signature dish, this is plain tonkotsu that swaps regular chashu for long, thin slices of grilled pork jowl, or cheek.
The result is a luxurious elixir of rich, fatty broth, burnished with a slight smokiness from the oils of the jowl.
This is no fountain of youth; it is a fountain of plump.
Each sliver of jowl has a strip of clear fat that runs along its length.
The menu is not exaggerating when it describes this as 'melt in the mouth': there is just enough lean meat for each slice to hold its shape between your chopsticks, yet it falls away at the slightest pressure from your lips. No teeth? No problem.
The 'normal' noodles are springy, but I would recommend getting them firmer for a more interesting texture to contrast the soft and fatty mouthfeel in the rest of the bowl — Picture by Ethan Lau
Like many ramen joints, you can customise the richness and flavour of the broth, and the noodle firmness to your liking.
In the interest of control, I chose the normal level for everything, which is already plenty rich yet balanced.
For a truly staggering experience, I'd recommend a 'strong' broth, though between the intense richness and saltiness, you might struggle to finish the bowl unless you take some pickled ginger or vinegar with it.
The 'normal' noodles are decently springy, though I will be getting them firmer on my next visit.
And there will be a next visit, because this is one of the best bowls of tonkotsu ramen you can find in KL right now.
Run, don't walk, because six months will pass just like that.
Hide-Chan Ramen
P1-12, Level 4,
Lot 10 Shopping Centre,
Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur.
Open daily, 11.30am-10pm. Last order at 9pm.
Tel: 03-2110 2366
Instagram: @hidechan_ramen1993
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
* Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and self-deprecating attempts at humour.
